商品説明

グリュエンスピールの3品種を3週間マセラシオンしたオレンジワイン
「Le Jeu des Verts（ル・ジュー・デ・ヴェール）」

「何かを良くしようと思ったら、それは愛によってのみ可能だ」。現代アルザスワインの頂点を極めるジャン・ミッシェル・ダイス。アルザスに初めて「テロワール」の概念を持ち込んで大論争を巻き起こし、遂にはAOC法の改正(ラベルに品種名を表記しなくてもよくなったこと等々)を成し遂げた、信念の男。現在も彼が昔から提唱する、畑の個性に基づく「プルミエクリュ」を実現させるべく運動を続けています。

「ル・ジュー・デ・ヴェール」は、グリュエンスピールのぶどうを使用したオレンジワインです。グリュエンスピールは、1.5ha。平均樹齢30年。リースリング、ピノ・ノワール、ゲヴェルツトラミネールが約3分の1ずつの混植・混醸。わずか10cm程度の砂礫質・花崗岩質の表土に、重厚な泥土質・粘土質の基層。平均樹齢30年。ステンレスタンクで3週間マセラシオンした後、フードルで12ヶ月間熟成。

■テクニカル情報■
栽培：ビオディナミ（1997年ECOCERT認証、2007年demeter認証）。クローン樹を極力使用しない
醸造：平均収量は33hl/hl（全アルザスの平均は78.80hl/ha）。白は除梗せず、赤は約80%除梗する。天然酵母のみで発酵。赤は木製開放槽、白は大樽で発酵。シュール・リー熟成。

DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS LE JEU DES VERTS
ドメーヌ・マルセル・ダイス ル・ジュー・デ・ヴェール
生産地：フランス アルザス
原産地呼称：AOC. ALSACE
ぶどう品種：リースリング 1/3、ピノ・ノワール 1/3、ゲヴェルツトラミネール 1/3
アルコール度数：14.5％
味わい：オレンジワイン 辛口

ワインアドヴォケイト：96 ポイント
The Wine Advocate RP 96 Reviewed by: Stephan Reinhardt Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2025 - 2050
The 2022 "Le jeu des verts" blends Riesling, Blanc de Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer already in the field on the clay marl soils of the Gruenspiel vineyard but also on the mash that was fermented for four of five weeks in stainless steel before the wine was aged in a 35-hectoliter foudre until the bottling in September 2023. Since Mathieu ferments the wine on the skins, particularly in warm years, it comes with a modified label and only the French-translated name of the original cru. The salmon-orange colored wine opens with a clear, very elegant and aromatic nose of redcurrant and more red berries. The wine is dry, very intense and powerful on the palate, nicely bitter (almost like a Campari) but also dense, highly complex and very long. This is an orange wine with red-wine character and fine tannins. Impressive. Bottled in September 2023, tasted at the domaine in April 2024.

It always takes a few hours to get through the profound wines of this domaine in Bergheim, each of which has its own personality. The fact that you can easily spend a whole day here is not because of senior Jean-Michel Deiss, with whom you can have passionate discussions, even beyond all the wines. Jean-Michel only shows up briefly nowadays, usually in overalls, because he is as active in the vineyard as he always wanted to be but never could because he was also the spokesperson for the domaine and the wine world explainer. He has long since handed over this job to Mathieu, his son, who has been directing the estate for many years and has perhaps even further refined the taste of the individual terroirs in recent years. He is also willing to experiment and takes different approaches than his father, but they are also contemporary. Outstanding white or orange wines can also be fermented on the skins. But Mathieu does not do this for the sake of the zeitgeist. He is open to new and traditional methods in order to capture and express the character of a location. He explains this at length and sometimes poetically, making it clear that he is not only a winemaker but also a reflective and creative artist. He always gives his highly complex grands crus more time than the premiers crus so that they are not too abstract when they are served. I therefore tasted them a good six months after the other single-vineyard wines, as well as the wines from his own Domaine Le Vignoble du Reveur (The Dreamer's Vineyard) from his maternal grandfather's vineyards.