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樹齢のブドウで仕立てるエルミタージュ！優良年にのみ生産される稀少キュヴェ！

初代エティエンヌがアンピュイの町に社屋を構えたのは遡ること、1945年。息子マルセルの代になり、同社の名声のもととなるコート・ロティの区画の数々を手に入れます。そして1980年代の半ば、かつてエティエンヌが働いていたコート・ロティの老舗ヴィダル・フルーリィ社、1990年代後半にはサン・ジョゼフの名ドメーヌ、ローヌ北部のジャン・ルイ・グリッパやド・ヴァルーイを、最近もコート・ロティもドメーヌ・ド・ボンズリーヌを取得しています。

現在では総面積55haに達する、名実ともにローヌを代表する生産者となっています。ギガル社の名声を高めているのは、コート・ロティの3つのプレスティージュ・キュヴェ、ラ・ムーリーヌ、ラ・ランドンヌ、そしてラ・トゥルク別名ギガル御三家と呼ばれています。

「エルミタージュ・ルージュ エックス・ヴォト」は、ぶどうの樹齢50～90年。ステンレスタンクを用い、ルモンタージュしながら4週間の醸し発酵。新樽で40ヶ月の熟成。紫の反射をもつ深いルビー。黒い果実、なめし革、甘草、東洋のスパイスなど香りは複雑。ユーカリミントのニュアンスも。リッチでしっかりした味わい。余韻もきわめて長い。

■テクニカル情報■
品種：シラー100%（テロワール構成：ベサール30%、グレフュー30%、ミュレ20%、エルミット20%）
熟成：新樽比率100%のオーク樽で42ヵ月間熟成

E.GUIGAL HERMITAGE ROUGE EX VOTO
E.ギガル エルミタージュ・ルージュ エックス・ヴォト
生産地：フランス ローヌ 北ローヌ
原産地呼称：AOC. HERMITAGE
ぶどう品種：シラー100%
味わい：赤ワイン 辛口 フルボディ

vinous：97 ポイント
97 Drinking Window 2026 - 2038 From: Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhones (Apr 2020)
Deep, glass-staining ruby. Deep-pitched aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry, fruitcake and incense on the highly perfumed nose. Stains the palate with vibrant black and blue fruit liqueur, allspice and violet pastille flavors, enlivened by a smoky mineral nuance that builds with aeration. Shows a suave blend of richness and vivacity, and no rough edges. Spicy and expansive on the strikingly long, sappy finish, which features resonating dark berry character and youthfully chewy tannins. - By Josh Raynolds on March 2020

ジェームス・サックリング：96 ポイント
E. Guigal Hermitage Ex Voto 2015 Friday, October 11, 2019 CountryFrance RegionRhone Valley Vintage2015 Score 96
This is a very powerful, sweetly spiced and complex Hermitage with hung meat and very ripe dark berries, delivered amid iodine and dark stones, as well as a core of rich mulberries and blackberries. The palate has an extremely impressive and succulent feel with such intensity and deeply ripe, long, plush tannins. Gossamer smooth finish and long, rich dark-plum flavors. Best from 2025.

ワインアドヴォケイト：96 ポイント
The Wine Advocate RP 96 Reviewed by: Joe Czerwinski Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2025 - 2040
Spicy, cedary and firm, the 2015 Ermitage Ex Voto is built tough, like the granite it comes from. Hints of pencil shavings and crushed stone accent mixed red and black fruit, picking up hints of licorice and pepper on the long, tannic finish. Give this another 5-6 years in the cellar, then drink it over the following decade and a half or so.

Tasting at Guigal is always one of the highlights of my Northern Rhone trip. Because of the family's breadth of production and hallmark long elevage, it provides a chance to look at several vintages together, along with commentary from the knowledgeable patriarch, Marcel Guigal. This year, I was joined by Marcel, his son Philippe and Jacques Desvernois, hired away from Jaboulet in the summer of 2018, for a five-hour marathon in the chilly cellar beneath the company's headquarters in Ampuis. Despite the cool temperatures, there were smiles all around at the quality of the samples on the table. "Global warming has been fabulous for the Northern Rhone," said Marcel at one point.

It would be easy to overlook some of the lesser wines in the cellar and zoom straight to the single-vineyard Cote Roties, but for readers on a budget, the company has plenty of good wine to offer, starting with the mammoth quantities produced of the basic Cotes du Rhone (4.5 million bottles of the 2016 rouge). From the north, the closest equivalent is the Crozes-Hermitage, but I favor the Saint-Joseph in most vintages for its more granitic expression of Syrah. The whites here (outside of Condrieu, where they are the largest producer) are often overlooked, but I believe the quality is improving. Philippe Guigal said they worked the lees of the whites sparingly in 2018 to avoid any heaviness. While the focus of my visit is on the north, Guigal produces several wines from the Southern Rhone, which were included in the tasting. Indeed, for a negociant, Guigal does a terrific job maintaining consistency in their Southern Rhone bottlings. Interestingly, although they now own a large property in Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Chateau de Nalys), sourcing for the negociant CdP remains completely separate. "We have two hemispheres in our brains," said Philippe. "Guigal and Nalys." The latest Nalys wines were reviewed previously, as part of my Chateauneuf-du-Pape coverage. Published: Dec 20, 2019